Gucci closes Milan style week with a eulogy to fashion as we recognize it

The present style week combined the physical with the electronic and closed with an epic exhibit from Alessandro Michele. Has the style world eventually changed for ever?

Gucci’s reside look e book from its electronic circulation.

Photograph: Gucci
Fashion has been grappling with its existential crisis for months. Broken supply chains, the exposure of racist and classist barriers and labels going seasonless have led to an introspective time for the industry. At the London and Paris fashion weeks, a host of digital-only displays were inventive, pretentious and beautiful, on occasion all at once. Yet it felt as if fashion had grew to become into a shadow of its former self, the proverbial ball costume reduced to the length of a slip dress in a bad spin cycle.
Fashion’s Big Reflective Moment persevered this week, however there changed into also a feel of a Lazarus-like reawakening due to the physical displays beginning again. Yesterday, an hour out of Paris, Jacquemus held its demonstrate in a large cinematic expanse of a wheat field, even as a few days earlier, at Milan electronic style week, Dolce and Gabbana were given wild and humanistic. It combined a pre-exhibit functionality by way of the opera boyband II Volo, belting out the song from the Cornetto ad (O Sole Mio), with a display in the grounds of Humanitas University, in which it is investment analysis on Covid-19.

Pomp and grandeur had returned.
Today, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, showed his co-ed selection in Milan. Presented as a 12-hour-long reside circulate of the Epilogue advertising campaign shoot, it featured CCTV photos of the apartment atmosphere up for the session. In comparison with the five-minute wisps of the digital displays, it was provocatively unapologetic in its length, with Michele gambling his Warhol role of ever-present auteur staring at the ennui of the makeup chair, the lighting rig and outside security.
The meat of the show was five hours in: a digital lookbook of more than 70 looks, presented like a primitive 80s computer program. The models, who were all part of Gucci’s design team, appeared on popup screens in clothing that were classic Michele: floral, maximalist and heavy with pop-culture nous. Looks winked at Maria Schneider in Last Tango In Paris, Jane Fonda in Klute and Jimi Hendrix placing out at Mama Cass’s condominium in Laurel Canyon. As op-art met kitsch and the Renaissance, it was very plenty a case of “putting contradictory points together,” as the photographic collaborator Alec Soth pointed out during the presentation.
Epilogue persevered the behind-the-curtain topic of autumn/winter 2020’s An Unrepeatable Ritual, and Michele mentioned he needed to deliver a observation of the “before, after and next” of fashion.

“My fairytale in three elements desires to generate a (questioning of) the rules, the roles and the applications that preserve the international of fashion going,” he wrote in the show notes. The fluidity of this idea, that style’s guidelines had been broken, even so a new generation changed into emerging was particularly cheering. Watch this space.